30063: (announce) A Fine Time in Jacmel for Carnival (fwd)

[Bob Corbett <corbetre@webster.edu>]

From: Pat Scheu <patscheu@harvestmoon.biz>

I wanted to post a brief review of the Carnival in Jacmel. Our little gang 
traveled under the auspices of the indomitable Jacqui Labrom, and I want to say 
we had a great time, with no hassles or issues.

We flew out of P-aP on time and without incident. The Caribiner offices at the 
Ti-airport in Port-au-Prince were packed, but folks were friendly, patient and 
the crowd remarkably orderly. I like to see Americans do that in our country! 
Caribiner Air was doing their best by adding additional equipment to handle the 
crowds heading overland to Jacmel. We took off on time and has a great flight. 
How lovely to be in Jacmel in less than 20 minutes!

The Aerodome in Jacmel is a new building, with fresh paint, lots of attendants 
and quick service. The folks on the ground were more than helpful. We 
transferred to the Hotel Cyvadier for then night. Beautiful location, with an 
open air bar and lovely private beach. Went to the Ambian's restaurant Friday 
evening in Jacmel - the streets were packed with people walking, talking and 
generally enjoying themselves. Lots of color lights strung across street lit up 
the night. There was enormous amounts of building going on - the viewing stands 
were being constructed that evening for the Sunday parade. Dinner at Ambians 
was fine, with music and good company. And again, the most remarkable part 
being the locals thanking us for coming down to Haiti as tourists. It became 
the theme of the weekend.

Saturday we spent on the streets, walking, shopping and talking to people. The 
general air was upbeat and happy. Bought masks, scarves and visited many 
artisanat shops. Jacmel looked great - many buildings have been painted, the 
street projects are on-going of course, but the area surrounding the Marche is 
done. Amazing to walk on real cobbles stone, with curbs and sidewalks. The 
streets were clean, the shops open for business and everyone seemed very 
positive and delighted in having tourists around for carnival. We even walked 
out along the beach front - clean, the road swept and hard packed. A real 
change from fours ago, when the beach looked like a rutted trench and the city 
seemed tired and bland.

Saturday night we attended Patrick Buocard's pre-carnival party. Patrick did a 
great job showing off many of the colorful costumes and masks that would be in 
the parades on Sunday. He turned his courtyard into a BBQ - party, which 
allowed some of the street performers to come in and do their thing. The 
Minister of Tourism was also present and nearly broke my husband's ribs hugging 
him, and saying thank you for coming to the Carnival! The meal served was 
wonderful, the kids in costume great fun, and we spent a long night with 
Patrick over rum and cokes talking about his upcoming music festival, the work 
of the center and his vision for the future of the Art Center in Jacmel.

Sunday was just flat out amazing. We walked into town for breakfast at The 
Florita Restaurant and turned it into our own little carnival spectacular. Some 
of the locals found us again, and did little improve bits for us, dancing and 
interacting. We gathered a crowd and strolled from the waterfront restaurant, 
up to Baranquilla Ave, walking with the bands, performers and Rara groups. It 
felt just like walking with a crowd in any major city. I've been in similar 
situations like the Sen Genarro festival in Little Italy, NY or the Mummers 
Parades here in Philly. With a little general precaution, we felt perfectly 
safe strolling along with folks on the street. Our group strolled the avenues 
for a time, then retreated to the shade of the Ambian's balcony to watch the 
parade roll by. And it actually began on time - around noon, the big floats 
started, followed by dozens of groups in masks and costume. Lots of political 
themes.  I liked the group doing the Unknown Slave best. Six men in loin cloths 
and black oil, would walk each block, stop and drop into position, to blow on 
black conch shells. The part that was impressive - how the crowd on each block 
went silent, as they did this. I spent nearly all day on the ground myself, 
with my camera, dodging in and out of the crowd, interacting with the 
performers, taking photos and speaking to the various folks who were often both 
astonished as to why I was there, and then delighted that I was. The kids from 
the art center seemed to remember me and said hi, as well as some of the groups 
I had seen the night before. (of course, my blaze of red hair was probably 
pretty memorable too!)

My general feeling was that folks were very happy to find tourists in town, 
spending money, interacting and having a good time. Being on the street in the 
crowd,  I exercised the same caution as if I was in the St. Joe's parade on 
Mulberry Street in NYC. I was pleased at how the city came together for the 
event, and despite some minor hang ups (like traffic snarls or the lateness of 
a meal, due to the crowd in the restaurant), I'll be back next year for another 
round of Prestige and friends.

And may I also give great kudos to Jacqui Labrom, who must be Haiti's biggest 
boost to tourism. With her exquisite Creole, lovely engaging manner and fine 
knowledge of all things Haiti, she did a terrific job organizing this trip for 
us long distance. All the little things that would have been very hard from the 
U.S. to do (like making reservation on Caribiner for Jacmel, when there's no 
number to call) were handled by Jacqui with aplomb. Mesi anpil!

Do go to Haiti folks - use caution of course, but it's so worth the time and 
effort. The people we met were lovely and really happy to see "blans" in 
country. Believe me, I am not naive - we were spending money. But like any 
country, tourists dollars do much to help the locals with their lot in life. We 
were happy to oblige.

We look forward to returning in the fall.
Pat and Don Scheu, Sosyete du Marche